From The Guardian:
The best ice-cream in the world, Cornwall
"If you have more of a sweet tooth, Jelberts of Newlyn is a must. My Mum grew up in Cornwall and we always used to revisit on our family holidays. The biggest treat was being introduced to a double clotted cream ice-cream with clotted cream on top, made by Jelberts, one of the oldest ice-cream makers in the county. Jelberts have only one shop - in Newlyn - and they produce a small amount daily, so it's always fresh. They only make vanilla, but in my opinion that's the best anyway. Loads of things to do and places to stay."
"Newlyn is the sort of place St Ives stopped being long ago. Small, unshowy, with just the one main road winding through it, this Cornish fishing village a few oar strokes west of Penzance refuses to parade its gems, preferring to let the strolling tourist discover them by chance. At the height of summer, the owner of Jelbert's, purveyors of possibly the finest ice cream in Britain, is to be seen unhurriedly wheeling a fresh bucket of his wares through the town to his decidedly unflashy shop; while, across the road at Aunty May's Pasty Co, a half-hidden painting of a pirate captain, holding a giant pasty to his curly beard, proclaims: "They're proper 'ansum!" "
"Frosty DelightsRegardless of the mass produced, fluffy ‘Cornish ice cream’ in supermarkets across Britain, you can still find the real thing closer to home. Words by Carol Trewin. Photographs by Adam Woolfitt.
At the height of the summer season it is impossible to walk through any Cornish town, harbour village or seaside resort without being assailed by a range of ice cream products.
Yet there is a world of difference between the simple process that Jim Glover of Jelberts in Newlyn uses for his ice cream, and the mass-produced product consisting of air, emulsifiers, stabilizers, sugar, vegetable fat, dextrose, glycerine and the occasional nod in the direction of dairy produce that is churned out of factories bythe millions of litres each year.
Ice cream in a form we would recognize has been made in Britain for just over 300 years, and by the second half of the eighteenth century, ice creams were being made in elaborate moulds and shapes, with a range of extraordinary flavours, including pistachio, jasmine, white coffee, burnt filbert cream ice and parmesan. But while ice cream started out as a luxury food for those with access to ice houses, by the mid-nineteenth century the combination of commercially available ice and new machinery took it to the mass market.
Suddenly, everyone could afford a hokey pokey - a two or three-coloured neapolitan ice cream, cut into small squares or slices, or a penny lick, which was a small portion of ice cream sold in a reuseable dish.
For Cornwall, with growing dairy and tourism industries, ice cream was an obvious product to develop and by the 1920s ice cream parlours had sprung up all over the county. But although ice cream is still an essential part of the tourist experience, most of these ice cream parlours have now disappeared. Harts in St Ives, for example, for many years one of the best-known ice cream parlours, is no longer - its building now part of a national burger chain.
Treleaven's is a notable exception. One of the new kids on the ice cream block, it has three ice cream parlours- in Looe, Tintagel and Polperro - selling a range of luxury Cornish ice creams and sorbets, all handmade in small batches using as much local produce as possible. “Milk and cream are about 90 per cent of the ingredients, and they are all Cornish,” explains Andrew Treleaven, adding that he knows the exact provenance of these ingredients. His nationally award-winning ice creams, in 36 flavours ranging from vanilla to orange and mascarpone, are made to exacting Italian artisan principles.
Two of the oldest Cornish manufacturers still in business are Jelberts and Kellys. Kellys was set up over 100 years ago and is still owned by the same family, making a range of ice creams using local milk and clotted cream. In addition to supplying its own shops and fleet of vans, the company sells through other retail and catering outlets in Cornwall.
By contrast, Jelberts has resisted the temptation to expand and remains a one-off, niche product - probably the nearest thing to homemade ice cream that you can buy in Cornwall. Based in Newlyn, it grew out of a dairy business run by Jim Glover's grandfather before the Second World War, which delivered local milk and other dairy products in and around the town. Although it is not clear exactly when Jelberts started making ice cream, it was probably after the war, when milk and cream rationing ended. Still made from the closely guarded, secret recipe used by Jim Glover's uncle and grandfather, small batches of ice cream are produced each day according to demand. Jelberts' only product is vanilla ice cream, which you can adulterate with a chocolate flake if you must, or top with a dollop of golden Cornish clotted cream, which is how most people eat it. Jim Glover explains that his product is made to be eaten fresh - if put in a freezer for any time it becomes so rock-hard that it is difficult to serve. Believe it or not, that is a good thing, as it indicates the low level of overrun - the technical term for air, which is what bulks out most ice creams, creating the smooth, light texture that is typical of modern ice cream. Denser, harder, granular textures signal that you are eating the real thing without all the added 'extras' that do little except add more profit to manufacturers' pockets. Relish Jelberts' ice cream while you can: Jim Glover may be the last generation to run this business."
Jelberts has resisted the temptation to expand and remains a one-off, niche product - probably the nearest thing to homemade ice cream that you can buy in Cornwall. Based in Newlyn, it grew out of a dairy business run by Jim Glover's grandfather before the Second World War, which delivered local milk and other dairy products in and around the town. Relish Jelberts' ice cream while you can: Jim Glover may be the last generation to run this business. Open Easter - October.
Jelberts IcesNew RoadNEWLYNCornwallTR18 5PZ"
Reviews from Real Consumers:
Apr 2009 Lucy Cooper
No need to agonise over which flavour to get - they only do clotted cream flavour, but boy do they do it well. For total gluttony get a dollop of fresh clotted cream on top...and a flake."
"The Best Ice Cream!
Feb 2009 Shane Pz
Try it yourself. Homemade with the same recipe no frills just amazing flavour."